Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
